I felt very lucky in June. I travelled to Iran to take part in a ten day residency in the south eastern province of Kerman. If I wasn’t a writer I probably never would have gone. I’d heard stories from friends who had been to Iran (a long time ago and more recently) and only had good things to say. They spoke of the incredible hospitality of Iranian people, their fabulous food, culture, architecture, the natural beauty of the country and its extraordinary history. And even though a threatening war of words was hotting up in the media and the travel warnings were out, I knew if I didn’t go now I probaby never would.
Seven Gardens Residency is just off the new highway between the city of Kerman and the small town of Mahan. Set in a walled garden, the residency villa looks out to mountain ranges on all sides. We ate breakfast and dinner with the mountains and every day as we travelled out to explore the surrounding areas with our hosts Sarah and Mohammad, the mountains followed us. (Read a piece I wrote about them here).
Ten days is not really long enough to get stuck into serious writing especially with activities planned each day. I liked the way my fellow resident, artist Helen Kirwan called it a ‘soft residency’ as opposed to one where you get a lot of ‘hard’ work done. But one of the reasons we were both drawn to this residency was the promise of local involvement. As the days progressed, each bringing completely new experiences, we marvelled at how lucky we were. We became part of our hosts’ extended family as they invited us into their homes and joined us on excursions to the Lut Desert, Shazdeh Persian Gardens, Rayen ancient adobe castle, and took us on numerous picnics. They showed us the art of weaving, bread and pastry making and loaded us up with armfuls of fruit and herbs from their farms and gardens. We also had the opportunity to give a presentation to a group of writers and artists in Kerman. I took them through a meditative writing exercise and Helen presented one of her video works. (Helen has exhibited at the past three Venice Biennales). This led to more invitations to the homes of local artists and plans for future collaborations. One of which resulted in a pop up gallery show of Seven Gardens Residents work (including Helen’s and my contributions) on July 26 at Yadegaran Gallery in Kerman).
After the residency I travelled for another few days taking in the towns of Yazd, Isfahan and Kashan, going on tours with local guides. It felt like a continuation of the residency experience as each new person I encountered became a new friend I felt so lucky to meet. (Iranian tour guides, both male and female, are highly intelligent, university educated, cosmopolitan, wonderfully down to earth people). Back home several weeks later, my Iran residency is physically over but in fact it still hasn’t stopped.(Maybe not so ‘soft’ after all!) I am still reflecting on, writing, dreaming about and performing pieces from my time there.(I took loads of photos of the whole trip you can see some here).
Being a writer is a lucky thing. (If you haven’t already, I dare you to proclaim yourself as one now). Not only does it give you a unique way of seeing and being in the world, but it can give you entré into all sorts of fabulous places. Being lucky comes with responsibilities but if you use your luck well the rewards can be great.
Res Artis is an organisation that lists all the arts residencies around the world. It’s where I found Seven Gardens.
Or if you want to join us on a Writer’s Journey residency or retreat, here’s what’s coming up!
Oct 6-12, 2019 – Haiku Walking in Japan, a pilgrimage along the ancient Kumano Kodo trail.Wait list only!
Oct 28- Nov 3, 2019 — Bali Writer’s Residency.Total focus on your writing project with in house mentoring and peer feedback. Still room to join, but be quick!
March 1-15, 2020 – Moroccan Caravan A creative adventure into the heart of Moroccan culture. Tangier, Chefchaouen, Fes, Tissardmine. Fully booked!
March 17 – 30, 2020 — Moroccan Residency. Fes, Moulay Idriss, Tissardmine. A week with Jan followed by your own residency in the Moroccan desert. New, just added!
Going to Iran
For easy entry into Tehran I was lucky to find Hi Tehran Hostel, centrally located, with fabulous local guides, run by a female partnership.
With some days free either side of the residency I enlisted the help of a local agency Tappersia to help with visa, travel insurance and organise a sightseeing itinerary. Run by a lively crew of universty educated young Iranians their mission is to present a different image to the world than the one we see so often on our western media screens.
Mam’noon (thanks!)
My heartfelt thanks to all my new Iranian friends who extended their legendary hospitality and kindness to me. Especially our host at Seven Gardens Residency, artist Sarah Malekzadeh (@sarahmalekzadeh) and our driver and translator Mohammad (Sarah’s dad) plus their family and friends who provided such a brilliant immersion into local life. Extra thanks to Mehrshid Amirpour (@mehrshid.doll) for introducing us to the Kerman writers and artists for ourworkshop and presentation.
Find me on Instagram:
@_writersjourney.com.au
@jancornallsongs
www.writersjourney.com.au
